Sehr zufrieden. Es muß nicht immer high end sein. Habe sie schon zum zweiten Mal gekauft. Sie halten mich sicher auf dem Fahrrad und so soll es sein. Sehr gute Qualität.

Buen kit de pedales, cumplen y parecen bien hechos, con buen material resistente.Faciles de instalar

Va genial en la bici, desde que lo compré no me ha dado ningún problema.

Como digo en el titulo parece un pedal muy robusto y de buena calidad. Es todo metálico lo que va ha hacer que sea duradero. Lo uso para una bici de montaña y encaja perfectamente. Lo recomiendo como usuario habitual de bicicletas (a diario).Además es bonito y desliza perfectamente.

Esta bien

Cumplen su función a buen precio

tienen muy buena pinta y es lo que estaba buscando

Arrivati nella loro confezione di cartone originale e chiusi in un sacchetto. Facili da montare con istruzioni anche in italiano. Buon materiale, lo si può sentire anche dal peso. Provati con una normale scarpa da ginnastica, il piede non scivola. Qualità/prezzo secondo me molto buona. Soddisfatto.

Parecen buenos por ahora aguantan yo los tengo en la bici del gimnasio y van muy bien espero aguanten,llevan un mes y se usan a diario

De tamaño y aspecto esta bien pero le falta grasa a los rodamientos y una contratuerca, sino se van aflojando y cogiendo horgura. Y algo resbaladizos. Aunque por el precio no se puede pedir mucho mas

Needed some inexpensive pedals to be able to fit some half clips. These do the job fine. Quality looks good

construction seems solid, easy to install.

I’ve ridden almost 200 miles on these pedals so far. I use toe clips with straps. For reference, I’ve put about 14,000 miles on this bike in just over four years.1. The pedals are well made and have a nice finish. The reflectors are easy to pull/pry off and can be pushed back on. They are a good deal at such a low price.2. They have the little finger guide at the inside end for the straps. The pedals do not grip the strap – the strap rotates around your foot each time you pull on the strap end to tighten it. I fixed this by using a small cable tie to anchor the strap to the pedal body.3. As others have noted the bearings are set too tight – rotate the pedal by hand and you feel the bearings dragging and grinding. This will cause the bearing to fail. Not difficult to fix, but it does take a little bit of skill. These are adjustable cone bearings (as with most pedals). Two bearings, inner and outer, with two cones each – the adjustable cone is at the outer end. Pry off the plastic cap – I use the tip of a razor knife to catch the rim of the cap and lift it up a bit and then use finger nails to pull it off. Use a socket wrench to slightly loosen the jam nut (the end of the pedal cage has an access hole for a socket wrench). Under the jam nut is a slotted washer (prevents the cone from turning when the jam nut is tightened). Under the slotted washer is the adjustable cone. This cone is threaded on to the end of the spindle and has a hex head. Use a very small tool to reach in past the jam nut and washer and rotate the cone (I used a tiny blade screwdriver – a paper-clip wire would work). The bearings should rotate freely but not too loose. Snug down the jam nut and check the bearing tightness. If OK, fully tighten the jam and check again. If OK, press in the cap and you are done. If at any point the bearings become too tight (or too sloppy), you have to loosen the jam and readjust. The reason for this trial and error is that tightening the jam nut compresses the bearing a tiny bit, so you have to set the bearings a bit too loose and then tightening the jam to compress the bearings to their final clearance. It usually takes me three tries to set a cone bearing just right.4. In cone bearing the balls are loose. If you open a bearing the balls will fall out. Spread out a sheet of newspaper to make a clean area and to catch the balls that fall out (finding a tiny ball that falls to the floor is very difficult). I disassembled the bearing so I could pack them with Phil Wood bike grease. Remove the jam nut and slotted washer then unscrew the adjustable cone while holding the pedal vertical. Use a magnet to remove the balls from the outer bearing. Carefully pull out the spindle while keeping the pedal vertical. Make sure all of the balls are out of the inner bearing (inside the pedal). Fill the cone of the inner bearing (on the spindle) with grease and then put the balls into the cone (the grease holds the balls in place). Keeping the pedal vertical insert the spindle into the pedal and seat the inner bearing. Put grease into the outer bearing, put in the balls, and carefully screw in the cone until the bearings are snug. Put on the slotted washer and jam nut. Now you are ready to do the bearing adjustment (see above).5. These pedals are a bit narrow, and the toe clip mounting holes are positioned a bit to the inboard side. This caused my toe clip straps to rub against the crank arms (I have narrow sole shoes for riding). This might not be a problem depending on the design of your bike’s crank arms. My Suntour crank arms come straight up from the pedals for 4 cm before bending inward. If your crank arms angle inward right from the pedals this should not be a problem. I fixed this by using a 1.5 mm thick washer between the pedal mount and the crank arm and by moving the toe clips 4 mm to the outside. For the washer I used a 12 mm copper oil drain plug washer – slightly enlarged the 12 mm hole to get a snug fit over the pedal threads. To move the toe clips, I used a 5/32 round file to lengthen the mounting slots in the clips.Altogether about an hour of extra work to get the set-up just right.