Simplemente magnífica máquina imprime de lujo

La máquina llegó perfecta y fue fácil de montar, pero tras dos usos empezamos a notar que algo no iba bien, a la tercera vez tuvimos que detener la impresión porque el film empezó a quedarse en la boquilla y a oler a quemado. Cuando abrimos la caja de hotend todo el plástico estaba como se ve en las fotos, escribimos a crealty para ver cómo solucionarlo sin romperlo además de para exponer nuestro malestar de que no pusieran una advertencia de que había que asegurarse de que la boquilla estuviera bien apretada, básicamente nos dijeron cómo hacerlo y que si se rompía cambiáramos la pieza. Al ser un error suyo creo que como mínimo deberían haber enviado la pieza de repuesto, cosa que no han hecho.”. P.D: efectivamente al ir a limpiarlo se rompió la pieza y he tenido que comprar una nueva.

Hace 5 años compré una Ender 3 pro que sigue funcionando como el primer día, me he aficionado y quería una 3D más moderna con más velocidad, doble eje Z, etc Compré otra marca del mismo precio que la Ender 3 KE y desde el primer momento sólo ha dado problemas de todo tipo empezando por un mal diseño de cables flex, al final me la he quitado de encima y he comprado la que tenía en mente desde el principio, ésta KE y no hay comparación, es montar el pórtico con unos tornillos, conectar 4 conectores, darle a calibrar desde la máquina y a imprimir perfectamente. La tengo prácticamente 24 horas en marcha y sin ningún tipo de problema. Bueno, lo único es no olvidarse de poner laca (la del pelo) en la cama.

Antes de imprimir hay que conectarla a internet y actualizar el software, si no lo haces la auto nivelación no funciona y como no se puede nivelar manualmente no puedes imprimir nada. El programa de windows "Creality Print" también debe ser actualizado, el que viene en el pen es muy antiguo. El nuevo funciona bien pero no ofrece muchas opciones, encontrarás muchos y mejores gratuitos por la red.El arco del eje Z no es lo bastante firme y temblequea, y los ejes X e Y también bailan un poco, así si quieres aprovechar la gran velocidad que tiene perderás calidad en los trabajos. Versiones anteriores ya tenían este problema, pero como han aumentado la velocidad pues ahora se nota más.Molesta bastante que cuando acaba no para los ventiladores ni se auto apaga sola.El embalaje y las instrucciones de montaje son excelentes, aunque se echa de menos un manual para los primeros usos, como reemplazar el hilo, como limpiar la plataforma y este tipo de dudas básicas.A pesar de todo esto, es una muy buena máquina, la pantalla táctil es excelente, tiene un muy buen precio, tiene una comunidad de usuarios enorme, hay recambios y accesorios originales y compatibles por todas partes y las demás tampoco están libres de problemillas.

Quitando que una de las guías inferiores está un poco suelta. El montaje es extremadamente fácil, pero no es una impresora que recomendaría a alguien que nunca ha tenido una antes. La impresora es muy buena y rápida. La recomiendo para gente que esté dudando entre esta y otra de las mismas características

Já fiz algumas impressões e a impressora fez tudo certo. Tem que pesquisar online como usar certos parâmetros para a impressão ficar boa.

out of the box the printer works great, and aside from bolting on the gantry, and plugging in some wires, is easier to get running than most paper printersit is a perfect printer if you if you want something affordable that will just printthe power loss protection works greatthe filament runout switch works great, but probably should've been on the SE toothe all metal hotend means you can print more exotic plastics (you might need to make a heated enclosure though)the 2 print cooling fans make slopes and overhangs easier to printbuild quality is amazing for the priceit has a direct drive extruder, so you can print flexible filaments, and waste less time retracting filamentthe build surface and heated bed give very good adhesion, I haven't had any warping with PLA except when it was dusty, or when the bed needed to be remappedthe magnetic build plate is very nice to have so you don't have to pry up larger prints with razor blades and scrapersthe printer is nice to look at, which can't exactly be said for the Ender 3 V1 and its exposed power supplythe motors are very quietaside from sticking once during setup causing the printer to give an easily identified error code, the bed mapping probe works wellthe Z offset load cell is very nice to have, but it would be nicer if it was in the print head (if it was than there would be no need for a separate bed mapping probe)unfortunately the cooling fan for the control board stays on constantly, and the fans in general are quite loudignore the following if you don't care about printing parts with abnormally tight tolerances, or you just really hate Creality Printyou'll need Mainsail or Fluidd if you want to fine tune motor rotation distance (motor steps), with stock settings my X axis was about 0.75-0.5mm too large over 150mm, which is fine for most prints, but can make printed gears, bushings, etc bind upCreality Print does have a sloppy way to bypass this, in that you can adjust both the x and y axis thermal contraction offset, but most other slicers don't have this, since this is usually adjusted on the printer itselfCreality print also lacks features like hole size compensation, and more experimental features like scarf jointed seamsklipper printers use a controller similar to a raspberry pi to send instructions to a secondary board, so installing custom control software is a lot more involved than reflashing a marlin printer, *don't try it unless you know what you're doing*, there is documentation for installing Mainsail and Fluidd on the Creality github, but the commands listed didn't work for me, so I had to spend hours looking for a different tutorial, since info on the KE was quite scarce when I got itit would be nice if it came stock with both Mainsail and Fluidd preinstalled, since they don't interfere with anything, and are needed to adjust advanced settings and print wirelessly with other slicersif you're a beginner get this or the SE, they're both greatif you want to fine tune your printer but absolutely don't want to mess around with ssh editors and stuff consider the SE,if you are good at following tutorials and want the extra features, get this

Per chi si affaccia al mondo della stampa 3D o per chi, come me, ci è dentro da relativamente poco, è il prodotto giusto.Montaggio estremamente facile, è pronta a stampare praticamente da subito.Comoda la connessione WLAN per cui si possono avviare le stampe direttamente da PC con il suo slicer.Precisa pur facendola lavorare a velocità sostenute, per quanto una stampa lenta sia sempre consigliata in favore della qualità del prodotto finale.Soprattutto sulla stampa del TPU, un abisso rispetto ad un modello precedente che utilizzavo.Per questo prezzo penso sia difficile trovare di meglio.Unica pecca: un po' rumorosa.

Muy contento con la definición de la impresora, si es verdad que la mesa se tarda un poco en regular, y el detector del eje Z viene con una pestaña que si sigues el plano, no se puede montar, yo lo he puesto con la pestaña por encima, pero no quedan los 32mm que marca el plano a la parte inferior.El tapete magnético es una pasada, facilita muchísimo el sacar las piezas,lo único malo es que no pegan bien las primeras pasadas,pero eso se soluciona fácil rociando un poco de laca (la del pelo) en el tapete.Muy contento con la compra. La recomiendo!

I had been wanting a 3D printer for some time with a specific purpose in mind. I co-worker recommended the Ender 3 so I bit. I watched some videos on getting started, leveling, etc., and got to work. Sort of.First, the cons: it is necessary to "level" the bed before use, which means to adjust for a constant distance between the print bed and where the plastic comes out (the extruder) using a set of four screws on the bottom of the bed. This can be very tricky. And it needs to be done a lot. It took me a LONG time to get good at leveling, and I was frequently exasperated. So if you do not like tinkering with your devices, you would probably be better spending your money elsewhere.Also, in regard to the half dozen or so unhelpful videos that will tell you turning the screw this way tightens it and turning it this way loosens it, a useful translation is:- turning the screw clockwise (as viewed from above) RAISES the bed and reduces the distance between the bed and the extruder- turning the screw counter-wise (ditto) LOWERS the bed and increases the distance between the bed and the extruderHaving said that, the pros:When this thing is leveled and working well, it is absolutely amazing what you can do. I tell people all the time how useful and amazing it is. Want a clip to keep your power tool cords in check? Print one. Want a belt clip for your reacher-grabber for when you are in the yard? Print one. Want a mount to put your cell phone on your camera tripod? Print one. Want some splints to repair those broken glasses? Print them. Want some custom "Letsgo" building blocks, doors, and window dividers? PRINT THEM ! ! ! (That, by the way, is the "specific purpose" I mentioned earlier.) It is astonishing the range of useful and fun things you can make with this.A couple of caveats:- you need 3D models to print. There are many available online but for your particular needs you will have to make the models yourself. All of the designs above are custom designs I made.- if you are going to design your own models it is necessary to couple this device with some design software. I use TinkerCAD, which is available online for free from Autodesk. It is amazingly easy to use and yet very capable if you are clever. But you do have to learn how to use it.- if you are going to design your own models it is necessary to couple this device with a "slicer", a program that takes your 3D model and buts it into layers the Ender can print. Once again, you will have to learn to use it. I recommend Cura, also free and easy to use.Whatever the problems with this device, I am enormously pleased with it. It might be my favorite thing ever, and maybe the best money I ever spent. So, with the qualifications above, I highly recommend the Ender 3 Pro.

Good product

Antes de nada, la caja vino con varios celos en las tapas como de haber sido abierta y vuelta a cerrar, me he mosqueado, pero una vez revisado y montado, todo correcto.Soy nuevo en elMundo de la impresión 3D y aunque siempre he sabido que tendría una, esperaba a que estuvieran más desarrolladas y económicas.Realmente ha sido montar (siguiendo los consejos de un youtuber) y empezar a imprimir. Eso si, he tenido que quitar el cristal, ya que al menos de momento era incapaz de que se pegara el PLA al mismo... con la base magnética de lujo. Otro detalle es que si viene revirada la base y no apoya bien, hay que aflojar (no quitar) los tornillos de la H, y volver a apretar una ver apoyen los cuatro tacos de goma por igual en la mesa.Pensé que de serie no sería capaz de imprimir con filamento TPU, pero ya he hecho un par de piezas con éxito, sin problema.Manejo sencillo, ajuste sencillo (un pelin más de tiempo para la mesa) e impresiones bastante buenas, siempre bajo el punto de vista de un profano, algo que a priori también es bueno saber para todo aquel que se meta en este lío sabiendo previamente lo mismo que yo, es decir, nada.

I ordered my printer from Amazon using comgrow - a Creality-authorized seller.General perceptions:- Printer was ordered on April 2, and arrived at my door on April 7, so the order was handled expeditiously- Printer assembly instructions were clear and easy to follow; I supplemented that with YouTube videos (this was important to ensure that parts aligned themselves well- Within a hour or so after unboxing, I was ready to do my first test printPrinting:- I have not used any filament other then PLA, so my impressions are obviously constrained- General quality is not bad- leveling the bed is quite a pain. My technique for leveling is to heat the bed and nozzle to desired temperature, then Auto-Home, then level. I do this before EVERY print to ensure that things are always as close to perfect as I can get it- The Cmagnet plate that came with the printer didn't work well at all. My very first print stuck to the plate and would not come off. I ultimately forced the print off, but it left quite a lot of extruded material stuck on that still will not come off- The glass bed worked very well (at least for the first few prints). However, I noticed quickly that I needed to use the scraper to clean off residue, and over a few days, it became apparent that adhesion was poor to non-existent.- I got info on YouTube to use 3M Blue Painters Tape (#2090). It takes a bit of care to properly apply the tape to the glass bed, but the results have been great. Fantastic adhesion. Easy to remove print. Tape lasts through several prints (I can typically do 5-6 prints before needing to change the tape).- I believe the heat bed warps significantly. This is big problem, and I have to continually tweak the level adjustments to get somewhat close to flat as feasible.Recommendations for Creality:- Add a filament guide- Change the position of the filament roll so it is aligned better with the filament feed assembly- Replace the plastic filament feeder with an all-metal one, preferably with 2 gears instead of one with an idler- Provide a longer "arm" for the filament feed assembly to make it easier to thread filament through- Built-in auto-leveling would be a great enhancement and should be added as an option when purchasing- Provide a higher-quality magnetic plate as the default one never worked for meOverall:- I would definitely buy this printer again: the price/performance ratio is excellent